Concubine Lane has evolved a lot ever since Ipoh was featured by Lonely Planet in July 2016 in their list of best Asian destinations to visit.
Charming souvenir shops, fashion outlets, cafes and dessert houses line this nostalgic street. The street literally comes to life during the weekends!
The atmosphere is like at Armenian Street in Georgetown, Penang or Jonker Street in Melaka. Touristy? Yes, but tourism helps preserve this part of Ipoh!
Table of contents:
Concubine Lane
Although Concubine Lane is the most famous street in all of Ipoh:
There are 2 other historic lanes that were once concubine lanes too! Hale Lane and Market Lane.
All 3 of these lanes are in Ipoh Old Town and are walking distance from each other.
Which makes them an easy item to check off the must-see list for any first-time visitors. And to include these places into their itinerary too!
But neither lane is sheltered so make sure you take an umbrella and slap on some sunscreen before you go out to explore them!
History
Despite the superficial touristy appearance that might be your first impression here:
Concubine Lane (Yee Lai Hong in Cantonese) off Jalan Bandar Timah (Leech Street) in Ipoh has more than a century’s worth of history to it:
Back before Malaysia’s independence as a British colony, there was a fire in 1892.
Lanes of shops were introduced into the new layout when the town was rebuilt.
And the well-known mining tycoon (Yao Tet Shin) gifted 3 of these lanes to his 3 wives.
- Wife Lane — Lorong Hale (大奶巷)
- Concubine Lane — Lorong Panglima (二奶巷)
- Second Concubine Lane — Market Lane (三奶巷)
If the Chinese translation confuses you:
The “first” concubine implies the wife while the “second” wife refers to concubine. And of course, the “third” wife is the second concubine.
Concubine Lane was one of those lanes together with Hale Lane and Market Lane as they are known today.
It is said that this is where the rich Chinese tin mining tycoons and British officers kept their mistresses.
But looking at them today, you’d never guess that the lanes previously housed opium and gambling dens too!
1. Past: Wife Lane — Now: Lorong Hale (大奶巷)
Seeing that this is the lane that belongs to the wife, you might expect it to be the longest lane, or the most vibrant.
However, this lane is quieter than the other two lanes. The lane is not long and has a single mural of a fruit seller with his cart.
It’s not much if you’re looking for anything more substantial than pastries or homemade cheesecake though.
2. Past: Concubine Lane — Now: Lorong Panglima (二奶巷)
Of the 3 lanes, Concubine Lane is the most lively with its myriad of colorful little shops and stalls. The oldest shop here is Restoran Wong Koh Kee.
Don’t forget to look up when you’re exploring the lane!
Some of the shop lots still retain a hint of their former appearance (e.g. the second level of a Chinese brothel).
Tip: Go on a weekday if you want to avoid the weekend crowd!
If you happen to come to Concubine Lane at night, the glow of the red lanterns will make it seem like you are in a red-light district!
3. Past: Second Concubine Lane — Now: Market Lane (三奶巷)
Market Lane looks great with colorful umbrellas strung up above the lane! Depending on when you visit however, the umbrellas do wear out quickly.
While there are no shops here, there is Nam Chau Coffee Shop. Stop by here for a cup of Ipoh white coffee.
Don’t forget to try their traditional pearl milk tea and dry curry noodles!
There are 3 street art pieces in this lane as well so make sure you check them out:
- Coffee shop scene
- Kids jumping
- Tricycle by Ernest Zacharevic
Opening Hours
Concubine Lane is open every day (some of the individual stalls may be closed depending on the day of the week) and it isn’t hard to find.
You may be able to walk there if your chosen hotel is in Ipoh Old Town. Else, the cheapest and most comfortable way to get there is to book a Grab.
Note: If you plan to drive, be aware that finding parking in this part of town is a real struggle!
- Address: Lorong Panglima, Concubine Ln, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening Hours: 9am – 7pm
Food
Did you know you can find some famous food right at Concubine Lane?
That’s right!
1. Thean Chun Restaurant
Famous for kai se hor fun (shredded chicken prawn noodles), this old-school coffee shop is usually full of tourists during brunch and lunch time.
Other must-try dishes include pork satay, egg custard, and curry chee cheong fun. Read more about dining at Thean Chun.
While you wait long for your food, you can order from next door too.
- Address: 73, Jalan Panglima, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening Hours: 8am–4:30pm (Closed on Thursdays)
- Remark: Not halal
2. Ding Feng Tau Fu Fa
This tau fu fa shop is no longer in Concubine Lane. But it’s still within walking distance from Concubine Lane.
And the new location has more seating and air-conditioning!
Besides some local food, they have several flavors of tau fu fa available if you want to try something other than the original flavor:
- Bird’s nest
- Teochew style with brown sugar, ginger and black sesame seeds
- Ginger
You can also buy bottled homemade soy milk – this is a bit sweet in our opinion.
- Address: 11, Jalan Bijeh Timah, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening hours: 9:30am to 5:30pm
3. Restaurant Wong Koh Kee
An old-school restaurant that’s been around for many, many years. Restoran Wong Koh Kee serves many stir-fry dishes and others like steamed fish or roast pork. You’ll want to dine with a big group here so you can try more dishes.
Popular dishes include:
- Stew with Chinese herbs and dates
- Western style fried pork
- Ginger steamed fish
Tip: Go before lunch time (i.e. 12:30pm) to avoid the crowds!
- Address: 3, Jalan Panglima, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening hours: 10:30am to 3pm
- Contact: +6016-5313826
- Remark: Not halal
4. Nam Chau White Coffee
This one’s at Market Lane (Just a minutes’ walk from Concubine Lane) as we mentioned earlier in this post:
They are popular for their appetizing dry curry noodles and coffee! More on what to expect at Nam Chau White Coffee Shop.
- Address: 54, Jalan Bandar Timah, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening hours: 7:30am to 3.30pm (Closed on Wednesdays)
- Contact: +6012-4625223
By the way, there are some treats you can only find at Concubine Lane!
5. Concubine Lane Rainbow Cheese Toast (Kuma Rainbow Cheese Toast)
Kuma Rainbow Cheese Toast takes cheese toast to another level! Pull the toast slices apart to reveal the rainbow!
It may be a novelty snack but it is yummy too. As you would expect since it’s cheese toast!
- Address: 25, Panglima Ln, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening hours: 10am to 7pm
Further reading:
Cafes Nearby
There’s an entire row of cafes just a stone’s throw from Concubine Lane.
Pop in for some western food, desserts, and coffee!
1. CHAKORI 二奶冰室
If the chic exterior and air-conditioned environment are not tempting you to go in, CHAKORI offers cool desserts that will be just what you need on a really hot day.
For drinks, the matcha latte (more bitter than sweet), houjicha and genmaicha are all highly recommended if you don’t like sweet drinks.
And while the menu does feature mains but these are only available after 11am. Prices are reasonable but portions are somewhat small:
Which does leave you plenty of room to try their gelato and waffles. Their ice cream selection has some interesting flavors like sour plum wine or black sesame. Fresh cakes are also for sale.
Lastly, you can’t fault their friendly and polite staff.
- Address: 35, Jalan Market Ipoh, 30000 Perak
- Opening hours: 10:30am–10:30pm (Closed on Tuesdays)
- Contact: +6011 – 13324118
2. Platf9rm Coffee & Brew Café
Fans of the Harry Potter series or those who love taking pics for their Instagram may want to give this place a look-see. You can even rent robes (RM10 for 30 minutes) to fit in with the theme.
Both the interior and exterior of this themed cafe is well done. Although it is an open-air environment, rather than an enclosed air-conditioned space.
They have drinks (including a very sweet butterbeer), coffee, cheesecake, brownies, etc.
It does get quite crowded on weekends!
Note: Each person must purchase either a food item or beverage; The drink Phoenix Tears is not recommended
- Address: 22, Lorong Panglima, Concubine Ln, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening hours: 11am–6:30pm
3. Chloe.co
This is a relatively new cafe in Ipoh. It sports a French inspired theme starting with the sleek swivel doors at the front. Crowds are common during public holidays.
They have an assortment of pastries including Berliners, canele, fruit tarts, croissants, decent beverages and the like. The cozy ambiance is the best thing about Chloe.co in our opinion.
- Address: 55, Jalan Market, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening Hours: 10:30am–10pm
Other cafes that you can visit:
- Patisserie BoutiQue
- Aud’s Cafe
- Girlie’s Café
See more options for cafes.
Souvenir Shops
Souvenirs can be pricey but this is to be expected in such a tourist hot spot!
Still, it’s possible to find some really nice handmade items if you look carefully.
Don’t forget to bring some snacks back home from Ipoh!
1. YG Homemade Biscuit
Open daily at Concubine Lane from 9am to 6:30pm, YG Homemade Biscuit sells freshly baked traditional pastries like salted egg yolk puffs or their signature kaya puffs and pandan kaya puffs.
They have sat kek ma, heong peah and sesame rolls too.
We witnessed the old couple running the stall winning over a family by interacting with their toddler.
2. Bam Choon Dong Tea Court
Bam Choon Dong Tea Court is open from 9am to 6pm. And you’ll likely smell the tea eggs that they brew here before you see them.
There are some seats inside if you want to sample different Chinese tea.
If the amiable boss is around, he will share more than just the history of the product!
3. Lim Heong Yuen
This biscuit shop is at the entrance to Concubine Lane, it is across the street from Thean Chun.
They have many packaged biscuits and snacks to browse through including 3-in-1 packets from local coffee manufacturer, Chang Jiang White Coffee.
4. GP Curry Bun
There’s one little stall at the side of Lim Heong Yuen and this is where you can pick up a signature GP Curry Bun. There are instructions for how to prepare your curry bun according to how you store it too.
The buns are very soft and the chicken curry filling is tasty.
If you prefer to dine in, the actual restaurant (GB Curry Bun) is on Jalan Sultan Iskandar. It’s 20 minutes to walk there, or a 7-minute drive.
5. Kong Heng Square Artisan Market
Old meets new at Kong Heng Square.
There’re a lot of cute knick-knacks you can pick up here! Like custom wooden keychains, earrings, lanyards, wallets, batik clothing or porcelain saucers.
- Address: 11, Jalan Panglima, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening hours: 10am to 5pm
Things To Do
1. OldTown Heritage Centre
OldTown Heritage Centre is beside one end of Concubine Lane (the end that faces Thean Chun and Plan B).
This fashionable building combines a cafe (Earthcare Cafe), a gift shop, and a heritage gallery under OldTown. The air-conditioned cafe is pricey, but comfortable. And the gallery is completely free to enter.
2. Ho Yan Hor Museum
At the corner of Jalan Bijeh Timah, just a block away from Kong Heng Square is Ho Yan Hor Museum.
The blue building was once home to Dr. Ho Kai Cheong who is the founder of Ho Yan Hor (now Hovid Berhad) herbal tea.
It’s free to take the tour and learn about Dr. Ho’s journey to becoming a famous entrepreneur and philanthropist.
Free tea tasting too! Read more about Ho Yan Hor Museum.
- Address: 1, Jalan Bijeh Timah, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening hours: 10am to 4pm (Closed on Mondays)
- Contact: +605-241 2048
- Entrance fee: Free
3. Han Chin Pet Soo
The building itself is a heritage treasure. Tours by the non-profit organization, Ipoh World allow you to see the inside of the building.
Inside, different levels have been turned into various exhibits related to the period when the former Hakka tin miners’ club was at its peak glory.
Including a recreation of what the inside of an opium and gambling den would look like!
- Address: 3, Jalan Bijeh Timah, 30100 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening hours: 11am to 3:30pm (Closed on Mondays)
- Contact: +605-241 4541
- Remark: You have to book online through the Ipoh World Website.
- Entrance fee: Recommended donation of at least RM10 per person.
4. Book Xcess Kong Heng (Yasmin Museum)
Ipoh’s first branch of this bookstore chain houses a small museum dedicated to the Malaysian film and commercial director, Yasmin Ahmad, and her works.
The location of this bookstore was previously an old bank vault! They use the vault to creatively display the books in the basement of the bookstore!
- Address: 91, Jalan Sultan Yusof, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening hours: 9am to 8pm
- Contact: +605-246 0019
- Entrance fee: Free
5. Funtasy House Trick Art
Another curious museum/ gallery you can check out is Funtasy House Trick Art.
Taking photos at this 3D art gallery is good fun for any age! If you don’t know how to pose, the staff will be happy to guide you!
Tip: Don’t forget to bring your MyKad if you have one!
- Address: 16, Jalan Market, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Opening hours: 9am to 6pm
- Contact: +605-255 0007
- Entrance fee: RM15 (Malaysians), RM19 (Foreigners), RM10 (Kids/ students/ seniors)
Hotels
Staying close to Concubine Lane is easy with these accommodation options:
1. Cititel Express Ipoh
A great value-for-money stay that is close to attractions in Ipoh Old Town too!
What you’ll like:
- Walking distance
- Comfortable rooms
- TV with HD movies
- Very clean
- WiFi
- Friendly reception
- Breakfast included
Good to know:
- Parking is in the basement and limited. Try to check in early if you can!
- If you have a lot of devices to charge, bring a multiple adapter
- Address: 2, Jalan S.P Seenivasagam, 30000 Ipoh,Perak
- Distance from Concubine Lane: 5-6 minutes’ walk
2. De Cafe & Rest House
As the name implies, this 3-storey building hosts a cafe and hotel in one! Aside from little parking opportunities here and the creakiness of the building at night, there’s a lot to like about this place:
For starters, the lovely staff and ambiance of the cafe, but also the hidden Instagram spot behind it!
The cafe serves good coffee and tea. As well as western-style breakfast croissants and cakes – try the mille crepes!
Solo female travelers will appreciate that there are separate (and clean) dormitories for both genders. The hostel is designed for budget travelers in mind, so most facilities (like bathrooms) are shared.
Note: You have to bring your own toiletries
- Address: 35, Jalan Sultan Iskandar, 30000 Ipoh, Perak
- Distance from Concubine Lane: 2 minutes’ walk
Related: 15 Best Breakfast Spots In Ipoh: Recommended By A Local!
3. Erica Underwood Homestay
Erica Underwood Homestay offers visitors a chance to stay right in the middle of Concubine Lane. There are double rooms as well as bunk bed setups.
Rooms are clean and comfortable but this homestay is most convenient for guests who don’t have their own cars. As no private parking is provided.
More budget hotels in Ipoh. You can also see this list of homestays.
Tips For Visiting
- If you go during Chinese New Year (January to February generally), the lanes may be decorated with red lanterns)
- Escape the crowds by going on a Monday or Thursday rather than the weekend!
- Bring a water bottle – you’re likely going to sweat during your walk
Ipoh Private Tour Service
Don’t want to suffer the heat to explore both Ipoh Old Town and Ipoh New Town?
Consider taking a private tour service instead:
It’s a quicker and more comfortable way to get around (especially for families) and you don’t have to worry about parking or driving!
Other benefits?
- Local guides who can speak English, Chinese or Malay
- Flexible hours between 8:30am and 8pm
- Comfortable transport (MPVs or vans)
- Tours include pick up and drop off anywhere in Ipoh
- You can combine your Ipoh tour with a trip to Penang, Cameron Highlands or Taiping!
Inquire about RayTheTour’s Ipoh tours via WhatsApp.
Conclusion
Do not be deterred by the touristy facade of the three concubine lanes in Ipoh. You can still find old-world charm here among all the trendy stalls, and souvenir shops!
And it doesn’t hurt to explore them too since they’re only a few steps away from other heritage attractions and street murals!
See this list for more things you can do in Ipoh.
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